Episode 911 – Travel Day: Köln to Bremen

Very loud noise started outside our hotel at 05:00 this morning. Construction is not actually allowed to start until 07:00 but deliveries are done overnight since they are prohibited in the Altstadt (old town) between 09:00 am and 01:00 am. This morning’s noise involved the delivery of a huge truckload of skids of lumber that had to be offloaded – and apparently dropped on the ground – by a forklift with a nice loud backup klaxon.

It’s a good thing we’d called it an early night last night and that I’d booked nice comfy first class seats for today’s 3 hour trip.


What follows is just a quick chronology in photos of our afternoon and evening in Bremen, where the rain seems finally to have caught up with us.

Oh well. We’re not made of sugar.

Bremen’s lovely main train station.

The very first time I was in Bremen, my cousin Helga and I had our picture taken with this mill in the background.

Our room at H Hotel, overlooking typical rooftops. I specifically booked a room with a sofa bed so that we would EACH have a king bed!

The room comes with gummy sheep called “sleep sheep”. I guess you count them as you eat them?


Priorities. #1 wanted Germany’s favourite fast food: a Döner (bottom). I had a falafel and vegetable “rollo”, a wrap apparently invented at a Turkish restaurant right here in Bremen. When heated, the wrap goes crispy and breaks into delicious crunchy shards

We walked past the former main post office.



And then around the Regional Courthouse complex, which is not only massive but imposingly beautiful.

“Built in 1891-95 according to plans of the Oldenburg architects Ludwig Klingenberg and Hugo Weber, the Courthouse complex appears well fortified due to numerous towers, covers a whole block and is divided into court house and the former remand prison. The two buildings are merely connected by bridges and are characterised by a multifaceted composition of historicizing form and style elements” (from the sign near the building)

Above the windows, the Ten Commandments.

Statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I from above the entry.










That was ALL the Court Complex, and we didn’t even walk the entire perimeter! Knowing it would be closed on the weekend, and we leave Bremen on Monday morning, I had hoped that we might get to see the interior. Unfortunately it closes early on Fridays.

We turned the corner to pass the old police headquarters, built in 1906-08 by the Berlin architect Carl Börnstein.


The design of the façade and the excessively large building size are typical of the desire here at the turn of the 20th century for imposing public buildings. Two towers on the entrance side to the Wall (remaining from the mediaeval city walls) mark the eastern entry to the Bremen old city.


Along the perimeter of the old wall is the verdant Wallanlagen (ramparts) Park, a green oasis that is a favourite with walkers and cyclists.


It contains a statue of Heinrich Wilhelm Matthias Olbers, the Bremen astronomer who found a convenient method of calculating the orbit of comets, and in 1802 and 1807, discovered the second and the fourth asteroids Pallas and Vesta, the Roman goddesses who are depicted on the sides of the statue’s plinth.



This sculpture in the park is actually entitled “Die Ende”(The End), but some wag tagged it “with glasses this wouldn’t have happened “

At the edge of the park we found Bremen’s iconic greeting expressed as a hashtag to identify the city. “Moin” comes from the Platt northern dialect and translates roughly as “good”. People in this region are known for wasting few words, so “Moin” alone is sufficient greeting any time of day. Never “moin moin” because twice would be redundant and wasteful!


Posing with the famous
Der Schweinehirt und seine Herde (The Swineherd and His Herd) located on Sögestraße.

For luck. We rubbed the donkey’s nose on the city’s most famous statue of the Bremen Town Musicians, the bronze one (created in 1953 by German artist Gerhard Marcks) that stands beside City Hall.

Another, much more colourful, painted fibreglass sculpture of the Bremen Town Musicians, by local Bremen artist Telly van der Smissen.

That piece was located beside the Gerhard Marcks Sculpture Garden.


From there we walked through an archway back to street level and the “meat grinder” fountain in front of one of the entrances to the old Stock Exchange (Börsen Hof) and then back to our hotel.



Der Tröpfler (The Dripper) by Daniel Spoerri is made of filigree bronze featuring dozens of cast meat grinders.


The only thing left to do today was have dinner, which we did in the restaurant beside our hotel: Schüttinger Gasthausbrauerei ( “guesthouse brewery”).

I really wasn’t hungry, so ordered just an appetizer of fries with cheese, that was so huge I only finished half. Son #1 ordered and enjoyed a main dish of Knipp , a traditional Bremen dish that is more like haggis than anything else (pork belly, rind and liver combined with oat groats and spices). It is served fried to crispy edges, accompanied by potatoes fried with bacon, and half-sour pickles. I really like it, and #1 agreed.


Of course we had the Schüttinger red beer. I’m holding both my glass and #1’s in the top photo.

Honest.


This afternoon we got a taste of Bremen’s architecture and food; tomorrow we will – weather permitting – explore the main square, guild houses, and The Schnoor.

2 comments

  1. Did you really manage to have your episode # 911 arrive in my inbox on the 25th anniversary of 9/11? That’s a bizzare coincidence if there ever was one! Bremen looks well worth a visit someday. I have to say, #1 bears a certain resemblance to Wilhelm I, but I wouldn’t encourage him to bare the middle of his chin anyway. I also loved the mishmash of clothing the astronomer wears in his statue — Roman or Greek robes over regular European clothing! Thanks for continuing to take us along to places we might never get to see.

    Liked by 1 person

    • #1 may well look a bit like a Prussian emperor. My paternal grandfather certainly had that look!!

      I didn’t even notice the 911. Being in Germany it hasn’t really been much in the news cycle

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