I’m ashamed to admit that I’d never even heard of Malé before seeing it on our cruise itinerary, and would have been hard pressed to try to locate the Maldives on a map. 

A quick Google revealed that Malé is the densely populated capital of the Maldives, an island nation in the Indian Ocean comprised of 26 atolls containing 1192 coral islands spread over roughly 90,000 square kilometres/35,000 sq miles, of which only 115 square miles are dry land!!

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It is known for its mosques and colorful buildings. The Islamic Centre (Masjid-al-Sultan Muhammad Thakurufaanu Al Auzam) features a mosque, a library, and a distinctive gold dome. Near the harbour, there is a popular fish market offering the day’s catch, and a produce market stocked with local fruit. The city of Malé, unlike the smaller islands hosting resorts, is one of the most densely populated cities in the world.

Since it was all new to us, we opted for two excursions: “Highlights of Malé City” in the morning, and the included guided walking tour in the afternoon. We hoped for some wonderful photos of the buildings and markets.

Sadly, both of our excursions were cancelled because the tour operator could not fulfill their obligations. It turns out that was because it is Ramadan, and the Maldives are a 100% Muslim country. Even visitors here are asked not to eat or drink in public unless they are on a resort, so the rules must be even more strict for residents working as tour guides.

I found that interesting, having had much laxer rules in Saudi Arabia in 2022, where local tour guides who were working were exempt from the “not even water” part of their daily fast. That memory led me to do a bit of research. I found out that when they say that the population of the Maldives is 100 percent Muslim, it means both that Islam is the state religion of the country, and that citizens are legally required to follow it. As of 2008, the law states that a non-Muslim may not be a citizen.

I was disappointed not to get a real feel for the country, but instead, Viking offered is either snorkelling or a beach break at Adaaran Select Hudhurah Fushi resort on the North Malé Atoll. Since neither of us snorkel, we chose the beach.

At yesterday’s port talk we learned that our ship would be at anchor, with tenders going in to a jetty. From there, a speedboat would take us to the resort, a trip of about 40 minutes. On arrival, we would be in an 83 acre resort that was also open to “normal” vacationers (i.e. not Viking passengers). We were forewarned that no lockers or change-rooms would be available, and no reserved beach chairs or umbrellas; first come, first served. A buffet lunch would be provided, but drinks were on a cash/credit card basis.

So, what was it like?

We don’t know, because this morning we chose not to go.

First, the weather. Yesterday, as we were sailing in the Laccadive Sea, there was the ominous rumbling of thunder, the waves started to build, and rain poured down. But overnight, the rain ended, although the clouds stayed. It was a hot 38°C/95°F under grey skies, with thunderstorms predicted to restart right about the time we were scheduled to leave the resort.

Second, the seas. While the weather has settled since yesterday, I watched this morning’s first tender gently rocking on the water and thought…. hmmm.

And then there was the whole 4-1/2 hours on the beach with nothing to do but relax. I’ll admit I’d have loved to feel the sand between my freshly manicured toes, and to splash in the ocean, but neither of those things seemed worth almost an hour on the water in each direction, with storms possible.

A few of our acquaintances made the same choice to stay on board, but nonetheless it was a very quiet ship today. Our room steward, John, went ashore so we ask him what the city was like during Ramadan. He simply said that he was disappointed.

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This evening’s entertainment was British/Serbian/Hungarian operatic soprano Gordane Kostić, who has been mentored through much of her career by Dame Kiri Te Kanawa. Gordana’s voice was splendid, and her vibrant and expressive stage presence really brought the arias she performed to life.

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We’re headed into three sea days before reaching the Seychelles, our first African stop. There’ll be lots of lectures and activities together us prepared.