Episode 576 – Panama Canal Transit Day

We’ve been through and past the Panama Canal before (Episode 48, Episode 151, and most recently just 8 weeks ago (Episode 562),cruising in the opposite direction.

How lucky we are to be making this beautiful canal transit again!

I posted loads of Ted’s pictures, and lots of words, on each of our previous transits, so this time I’m just making a note in this on-line diary of mine that we did it again.

We woke at 8:30 a.m. in one of the Gatun locks.

The water on the rail, and the remnants of grey clouds, attest to overnight rain, but our luck is holding and the sun is breaking through.

Coming out of the Gatun locks into sun-dappled Gatun Lake. This is where the “mules” reverse on their tracks.

Rather than join all the folks in the Explorers Lounge and on the outside decks, I chose to spend the day reading in various quiet spots around the ship, with the live commentary by guest lecturer Andrew Roberts as background, and occasionally looking up to see where exactly we are in our progression from the Atlantic/Caribbean to the Pacific.

As usual (Ted would most definitely attest to this), my reading plan took second place to chatting. We have two Canadian crew members on the Sky, one of whom is Adrian Wong, the Hotel Purser. Adrian is originally from Toronto, and transplanted (like us!) to the Vancouver area. There is something about his open, friendly demeanour that is an absolute magnet for the Canadians on board; thanks to him this morning I met Paul and Jean from Welland, Ontario (home of Canada’s most famous locks, which allow ships to bypass Niagara Falls to travel between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario) ) and had a lovely conversation. They’re on the World Cruise too, so hopefully we’ll get more chances to interact.

There’s a Caesar salad “event” on the Aquavit Terrace today, and Adrian is tossing salad. We love that Viking’s officers interact with the passengers in so many ways; Executive Chef Martin quipped that Adrian, and Nico (our Guest Services Manager) were finally doing something “actually” useful. I also love Viking’s commitment to keeping us hydrated. While we chatted in the atrium today, mimosas magically appeared for everyone.

Caesar salad garnished with anchovies, prawns, grilled salmon, and Parmesan leaves – plus herbed garlic toast. Dessert was banana cheesecake, a new combination for me, but tasting like an ultra-rich banana cream pie. Ted had pork crackling for lunch. Just pork crackling. Don’t even ask.

Mid-day we were on Gatun Lake, a tranquil stretch of water with lush greenery on each side. If only there were castles and vineyards it would rival the Rhine for my favourite quiet cruising spot.


Around 2:30 a Panamanian boat pulled alongside to allow a pilot to board the Sky. We’d already passed under the Centennial Bridge and were now at the San Pedro lock.


At each of the locks, our Captain was required to formally turn over control of our vessel to a specially trained pilot who will navigate us through the locks. The Panama Canal is the only place in the world where the Captain relinquishes control of their vessel to the local pilot.



Beside us was a yacht transport ship of the maximum width that can go through these locks, looking like a building on the water!


At the stern we could watch water pouring in to fill the lock and raise us to the next level. (Our friend Don would undoubtedly say that we’re all already “next level”.)


And in a very short time we were free to cruise on…



It seemed that no sooner were we through Pedro Miguel than a pilot to take us through the Miraflores Locks was boarded.


Ahead of us, under threatening skies (Panama has a reputation for extremely quick weather changes) were the last locks before we reached the Pacific, and our first glimpse of the Bridge of the Americas.



And our canal pilot was gone…



Ted has stuck to a faithful routine of doing 12 laps (3 miles) around deck 2 every sea day, while I have stuck to a routine of attempting to read but getting distracted by chatting and pre-dinner Negronis. It’s a tough life.

We had dinner on our own tonight in the restaurant. A table for 2 affords as much or as little privacy as you want, since tables are arranged close enough to each other to allow conversation if you wish.

The evening sky made such a vibrant blue backdrop that we just had to have a photo.

Top: Roasted Sweet Potato Soup with maple syrup, lemongrass, ginger, &coconut milk; Sesame Crusted Tuna Tataki with edamame, cucumber, carrot; ponzu sauce, yuzu vinaigrette.
Centre: Viking’s special ribeye steak frites; Thai green vegetable curry with crispy tofu.
Bottom: ricotta cheesecake; “Green Tea Creamy & Crunchy”
(flourless baked chocolate brownie, green tea crémeux, green chocolate shards)

The entertainment staff need a night off occasionally. Viking has an agreement with New York’s Metropolitan Opera, so in lieu of live entertainment, I took in the Met’s recorded performance. Ted is NOT an opera fan (although he does enjoy a good Gilbert & Sullivan operetta), so he headed to the Explorers Lounge for acoustic guitar. I wish I’d joined him; the best part of the production was Julie Taymor’s costume and set design. I didn’t love the English version otherwise.


Tomorrow is a sea day, which we’re starting with a below decks tour. Tonight we gain an hour of sleep as our clocks move back 1 hour to Costa Rican time.

3 comments

  1. Rose, when traveling through the canal there are steepes that remind me of rice or vineyard steepes. Do you know what they are?

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