Episode 563 – A (Hot) Walk In Oranjestad, Aruba

We’ve spent very little time in the Caribbean on our travels; Jamaica in 1979, Cuba in 2000, and a cruise stop in Cozumel in 2021 is the entirety of our time there.

We have a family tradition that Ted, who seems so serious on the outside,
sends a silly picture to our grandsons from each of our travel destinations.
I think he really rocks this look, but the boys have a different word for it: “cringe-y”.

Our other photographic tradition is to take a picture of the place name sign.

The turquoise Caribbean waters surrounding Aruba.

Top: zoomed in on an off-shore oil rig. Bottom: to one side of the harbour we could see an oil refinery tank.

Three views of the waterfront area from our ship. In the uppermost photo we could see the cone-shaped Hooiberg (the direct Dutch translation of the word haystack). The mountain rises 540 feet up from the center of the Island and the hike to the top via 600 steps apparently results in gorgeous views. Sadly, it was just too darned hot for us to attempt that hike.

Aruba adds not only a new country to the list of places we’ve travelled, but a new perspective on the Caribbean islands, each of which has a unique history.

The first known inhabitants of what is now Aruba were the semi-nomadic Caiquetio Indians of the Arawak tribe from Venezuela, who hunted and fished from temporary villages here from beginning around 2500 BC until about 1000 AD when they established permanent settlements. Almost 500 years later Aruba was “discovered” (aka taken over) by the gold-seeking Spanish, who apparently declared it “useless” when they found no precious minerals. They weren’t foresighted enough to realize the potential of aloe and rum.


Ironically, it was the Dutch love of herring that brought them to the island, looking for salt (to preserve their catch) in defiance of an order by the Spanish King Phillip II barring Dutch vessels from the area. There was a brief period of British rule from 1806 to 1816 during the Napoleonic Wars, but the island was returned to Dutch authority by the terms of the Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1814.

Although it has had its own constitution since 1985, Aruba has not attained full independence, and is still considered a “constituent country” within the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

The capital city Oranjestad is considered a prime tourist destination. Its tourism information focuses on the beaches, the duty-free shopping, and the “perfect” weather, highlighting temperatures that remain moderate year-round, ranging from 27.0 °C /80.6 °F to 29.6 °C/85.3 °F and with beautiful trade wind breezes from the northeast via the Atlantic Ocean.

But when I look back at this port, what I’m going to remember is that it confirmed for us that we are NOT beach/hot weather people. By 10:30 a.m. it was 34°C/94°F under full sun with 80% humidity. The 22kph/14mph SE wind wasn’t anywhere near enough to evaporate the perspiration grossly sliding off us. I really wanted to explore the city on foot, because the mid 19th century Dutch-influenced architecture is best seen up close, but the intense heat kept us within the boundaries of L.G.Smith Boulevard along the waterfront and Wilhelminastraat – a round trip of only about 3 km/1.8 miles and 6000+ sweaty steps.

I guess we could have taken the trolley, but it was packed with people and it certainly would not have given Ted the vantage points – or time – to take great photos.


We saw some lovely buildings, in various states of preservation.

The instantly identifiable pink Royal Plaza is being transformed into condos!

The building above is being restored and will house a bistro and hotel/apartments. It is the former residence of Federico Maximiliano (Machi) and Maria Veneranda Arends, built around 1936 by Dada Picus. The impressive house, back then one of the largest mansions in Aruba, is executed in Latin American Neo-Baroque style. This architectural style, fused European Baroque with local influences and emerged in Latin America in the late 19th to early 20th centuries.

(From the historic marker) The townhouse above was commissioned by Andries Laclé Jacobuszoon in 1898. In 1929 purchase of the entire property was completed by his son-and-law Habib Habibe, alias Julio Niovla Catini, alias Habib Nicolas Salim Habibe. Habib Habibe was believed to be a trader of aloe products and also made loans to private individuals. The ground floor was a shop while the second floor was a full-fledged apartment, which could be accessed using the outside staircase. This townhouse impressively featured no less than three pairs of dormers. Over the years, the building underwent several expansions. Remarkable for this property are the columns. Among locals, this property is called “La Casa Rosada”, as it used to be pink (rosada). This townhouse enjoys historic and architectural value as a worthy example of a residence-workshop construction. Its balcony with supportive columns and its terrace with a basin near the cistern, as well as the characteristic gables, add to the character of the surroundings. The value of the building is enhanced by its location among several other historic buildings on Wilhelminastraat.

This lovely restored home had a sign out front that was curiously tilted due to the sidewalk having heaved.
The marker reads: This townhouse was probably built around 1946 for 4,285.00 florins by Godfried Croes, a trader in aloe products, and his spouse Sarah Catharina Croes. The building’s architecture was inspired by the Latin American Neo-Baroque style that was prevalent in the Colombian harbor city of Cartagena, with which Aruban merchants had close commercial ties.
In 1958 the building was remodeled to its current style and architecture. It is characterized by lavish ornamental elements such as balusters, molded cornices and gable ends shaped as crests, and similar decorative elements. The projecting balcony is certainly impressive with its supportive columns. This private residence was restored in the 1990’s.

(From the historic marker) The building above, known to locals as the Eloy Arends’ House, is considered to be one of the most beautiful townhouses in Oranjestad. In all probability designed by Chibi Wever, Nicolas Picus and Dada Picus, the building was commissioned by Aruban physician Jacobo Eloy Arends, who worked as a general practitioner on the island before becoming a government physician in 1920. He also became the first Aruban to be appointed to the Advisory Council (Raad van Advies). Eloy had this stately home built in anticipation of his marriage to Maria Monica Laclé. In those days, it was customary for an engaged couple to hold off on marriage until the groom could offer his bride a fully furnished house. The future wife was not even allowed to be in the area, let alone see the house before it was ready. According to local superstitions, couples complying with these rules would enjoy a long and prosperous marriage.

In 1960, the house was passed on to Eloy’s son, who converted it into a dental clinic and laboratory. In 1986, the property was purchased by the government and restored ten years later.

Currently, civil marriages are performed daily at this charming mansion. The elegant detailing and ornamentation are quite unique, reflecting different styles, making it one of the most iconic images of historic Oranjestad.

There was actually a beautiful wedding party being photographed on the steps when we arrived at the house, but they did not want their photo taken by anyone other than their own photographer, so we waited until they had moved into the gardens.


Aruba’s General Courthouse is right beside Arends’ House, making it the perfect wedding location.

Top: For those who prefer a church wedding , the yellow and white Protestant Church in the foreground is the oldest church in Aruba, dating to 1844. Behind it is the “new” church built in 1950 when the congregation outgrew the original building. Bottom: In May 1856, a bell cage nicknamed “de Duiventil” (the dovecote) was placed on the roof. The bell that was installed came from Coro, Venezuela. “De Duiventil” later had to be removed to make way for the current tower, built in 1867 according to a design by Lieutenant Governor J.H. Ferguson. In 1910, Reverend Eybers paid for the porch on the street side with his own money in order to “hinder people from causing nuisance by looking in.”

To me, the bell tower looked like an iced wedding cake.

The original church now houses a Bible Museum in what was the original sacristy behind the altar. I had a lovely long chat with one of the church Deacons while we were there, and learned a bit more about how multicultural Aruba is. Her own immediate family is an Aruban, Dutch, American, English, Surinaman mixture, and she described it as “all the beautiful shades of brown from beige to dark chocolate”.

Two names familiar to Biblical scholars: 1817 treatises by John Wesley and William Paley.

Top: an original Delft Bible from 1477 ! It was already centuries old when this church was built. Bottom: A Dutch Bible illuminated with Rembrandt prints; we’ve never seen anything quite like it.

An Old Testament Concordance from 1691. A concordance is basically a dictionary accompaniment to a text. In this case, it is significant because just over 150 years after Luther published the first complete bible in German instead of Latin (in 1534), earning the Pope’s wrath, enough “ordinary” people were reading Bibles in their own languages to require a dictionary of biblical terms.

Everywhere we looked, both neon bright and softer pastel colours accosted our vision.



That building bottom left looks like a Piet Mondrian canvas – a more modern Dutch influence!


Even the animals that crossed our paths added to the colour overload.


Except for the extreme heat, I’d have agreed that it was Dushi Bida!

“Dushi” when used to describe food means sweet or yummy. When used as a term of endearment for a lover or spouse it means “sweetheart”; for a child it means “sweetie”.  “Mi dushi” means my darling, while “Danki dushi” – which means thanks babe – could also be said to a stranger. “Dushi Bida” means life is good in Papiamentu (the Portuguese-based creole language spoken in the Dutch Caribbean). Basically, “dushi” is used here the way “habibi” is used in Egypt.

I wanted to dip my toes into the Caribbean before we headed back to the ship for a cool drink and blessed air conditioning. Unfortunately, because this wasn’t really a tourist “beach”, but just a sandy ledge beside the marina, the water was full of floating trash. It seems there’s hardly anywhere in the world where people aren’t too lazy to dispose of something as simple as a plastic water bottle, or a candy wrapper, properly.


For the next two days we’ll be at sea, headed for our final destination: Port Everglades Cruise Port in Fort Lauderdale. We’ll be home just in time to celebrate two of our grandsons’ October birthdays.

This cruise has been a lovely break. In 57 days we board the Viking Sky for a 138-day World Cruise, at which point I’ll be back to diarizing our journey almost daily. We’d love having everyone follow along!

2 comments

  1. Thank You, I enjoy armchair travelling the world! Through your emails. I’m looking forward to the next world cruise diaries. One day I hope to be

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