Episode 557 – Back in Puerto Vallarta

This past January, our previous Holland America cruise made stops in La Paz, Loreto, Cabo San Lucas, and Ensenada, Mexico. This time around our Mexican stops are Puerto Vallarta, Huatulco, and Puerto Chiapas.


We were last in Puerto Vallarta in January of 2022 on our first Viking World Cruise, when we took an excursion inland to visit a really wonderful tequila distillery, while many of our fellow passengers went shopping. Episode 168. On that cruise, it was in Los Angeles that passengers found out that we were being completely rerouted due to Covid restrictions. Episode 161 – Change is the only constant. Everyone had packed for warm weather, only to realize that we’d now be sailing around Cape Horn’s glaciers, and visiting penguins. There was such a general panic about not having appropriate clothing (pants, sweatshirts, etc) that Viking arranged shuttle buses here in Puerto Vallarta to take folks shopping at Walmart. (We had our Ontario winter departure clothes, so were fine.) Folks on that cruise nicknamed the stop “Puerto Walmarta”.

Our ship is docked virtually beside the long strip of beachfront resorts that stretch all the way to the cathedral 5 kilometres away.


We had planned to walk around on our own along the Malecon (waterfront promenade) to the city’s cathedral, the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe), with its magnificent waterfront views, trusting that there would be taco and Tecate (a popular brand of Mexican beer) stands along the route. BUT, it was 32°C/90°F outside, with 79% humidity. We decided to take an UBER.

Side note: the taxis at the port started by offering to drive us to the church for $30USD/$40 CAD. Then $20USD/$27CAD. When I explained that I was only carrying pesos, one taxi offered to take us for $300MX($15.50USD/$21.50CAD). Our clean, prompt, friendly UBER was $109MX; even with a 20% tip we were still under $7USD/ $10CAD.

We were dropped off a short block from the cathedral, and immediately started to notice colourful murals and brightly painted building walls.


Many streets were festooned with papel picado , the intricately “pierced” tissue paper flags that have become synonymous with Mexican celebrations.

Because we were here on a Sunday, mass was being held all day, alternating English and Spanish, so Ted really couldn’t take much in the way of interior photos.

The gold leaf is 24 karat!

The entryway to the cathedral has a lovely stained glass window.


But he did get several angles featuring the church’s most famous feature: the crown atop the clock pillar.


Looking up into the crown.



The church is fairly new, dating only to the 1930s, but local legend has it that the “Crown of Angels” is modelled on the coronation crown of Charlotte of Belgium, who was Empress during her husband Maximilian I’s brief tenure as the Habsburg-born Emperor of Mexico.


We took time to stroll the Malecon, watching the pelicans, egrets, and wading birds along the shore.

A small magnificent frigate bird atop a statue. We saw several soaring overhead.

Very noisy black-necked stilts. They sounded like rubber ducks being squeezed!

Stilt trio

Lots of cormorants fishing in the shallow waters.

One of several snowy egrets.

The Central American grackles in the trees seemed to be mimicking the songs and cries of all the other birds!

We don’t usually expect to see pelicans perching in trees.

We stopped to sit in a gorgeous mosaic-tiled park, where each work of art – whether a post, a bench, or a wall – has been sponsored by a Puerto Vallartan individual, family, or small business. The colourful, sinuously curved benches reminded me of Gaudi’s Parc Güell in Barcelona.


My mosaic tile “fainting couch”.

Because it was just so darned hot we stopped at one of Mexico’s ubiquitous OXXO convenience stores to grab a cold Tecate for me, and a chilled tamarind soda for Ted. I also couldn’t resist a scoop of excellent Mexican helado, the creamy ice cream we grew to love in Mérida. Coconut with coconut shreds and bits of fresh pineapple. Yum.

There was a strolling vendor hawking spicy grilled shrimp skewers and fresh lime wedges. Much as I love shrimp, I wasn’t tempted.


We continued our walk to admire the many bronze statues along the waterfront until we decided – after just over 3 hours in the hot sun – that we really needed to head back to the ship. We were in an UBER within 2 minutes of booking, and returned to the cruise port for the same fare we’d paid in the other direction.

SanPascual Bailon, the patron saint of cooks.






Drinking with a bronze mule….. there’s a first time for everything! Cheers!

We had time for a much needed shower and a pre-dinner drink (an Aperol Spritz for me and a couple of iced chai lattés for Ted) while I sorted through his wonderful photos and put together this blog.

Tonight was one of our included specialty restaurant dinners, at the Pinnacle Grill, which predominantly features steak and seafood. Both the food and the service were excellent.

Top: Forest mushroom soup, lobster bisque. Centre: seared scallops over cauliflower risotto, 15oz ribeye with peppercorn sauce. Bottom: warm chocolate soufflé with crème anglaise, key lime pie.

Between our long hot walk and a big dinner we were tuckered out, so spent the evening watching NFL football in our stateroom,

Tomorrow is a quiet sea day en route to Huatalco. I’m not planning to blog it, although Holland America is preparing a Canadian Thanksgiving dinner in honour of the approximately 50% of passengers on this cruise who hail from Canada. They’re offering turkey with apple sausage stuffing, lemon thyme Brussels sprouts, glazed carrots, corn, cranberries, and glazed sweet potatoes. No word yet whether pumpkin pie will be on the dessert menu.

The day after that we’ll be in Huatulco Mexico, on a bird-watching eco adventure. Ted is looking forward to getting some great photos to share.

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