#MyVikingStory

We were to dock today in Breisach, just inside Germany’s border with France. That original plan had us beginning our day 20 km outside Breisach in Freiburg on a guided tour, and then having the afternoon to ourselves to explore Breisach before re-boarding the ship.

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Instead, we’re docked where water levels allow, in Strasbourg, and will travel south by bus to Freiburg, missing Breisach all together.

Our included 4 hour excursion today: Freiburg Yuletide Market & Organ Concert. Discover Freiburg, the city known for its medieval old town and enchanting Christmas markets. Admire the scenery on a panoramic drive to the city, situated on the southern edge of the Black Forest, followed by a stroll through the historic center. Follow your guide as you learn the history of Freiburg and the Christmas traditions of the past and today. A highlight of your walk is the medieval Freiburg Münster, dating back to the 13th century. Located in the heart of the Old Town, the Gothic-style cathedral has more than 90 gargoyles guarding it. Pause and admire the detailed figures dotted around the stunning landmark. Visit the Christmas market in the city’s main square and delight in the bright lights and decked-out stalls of this festive setting. Enjoy an organ recital before returning to your ship.

Our guide for the morning, Felix, was a fount of information and led us through 1600 years of history from Celts through Romans, Habsburgs, and Prussians. For a few years Freiburg (meaning “free walled city”) was actually owned by its citizenry, who bought it from the inept Dukes who ruled it. Unfortunately, they were unable to repel invaders, and eventually became part of what would become Germany.

We had a short walking tour of the old part of the city, with its beautiful architecture, patterned cobblestone streets, and quaint Christmas market.

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Of course there was glühwein, but also freshly made pistachio and toasted almond nougat. Since the 17th century, nougat has been an indispensable part of the famous tradition of the 13 desserts, which refers to the 13 apostles and can be found on every festive Christmas table in the region. The delightful vendor told us that the nougat would stay fresh for up to 3 months; ours barely made it back to the bus!

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The highlight of the city during non-market times is the Münster – the cathedral to our lady in the centre of the old town. Completed in the early 14th century, it combines Romanesque and early gothic styles. The openwork sandstone spire was for a few years in the early 1300s the tallest structure in the world at 113 metres/370 ft, until eclipsed by Salisbury Cathedral with its 123 metre/404 ft spire. As is often the case, it’# hard to get a picture of a huge building when it is closely bordered by other buildings.

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The many figures arrayed around the entryway reminded us of the cathedral in Cologne, but Freiburg’s are coloured, making them especially interesting.

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Inside, the church boasts lovely stained glass, soaring ceilings, and 4 pipe organs. We were treated to a 20 minute (total) concert featuring one piece of music played on each of the organs.

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Something we’d never seen before was a life-sized bronze diorama of the Last Supper. It was set off to one side in a niche of its own. Unlike many Gothic cathedrals we’ve seen, this one had no side chapels.

After lunch, Viking arranged shuttles to take us to and from old Strasbourg, giving us an hour to explore the city on our own before tomorrow’s official tour.

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With crowds not as large as they get in the evenings, it was a good opportunity to view the exterior of Strasbourg’s imposing gothic cathedral, which is at the very centre of both the city and the Christmas market. Notice how the sandstone changes colour with the sunset. Tomorrow our guided tour will take us inside the cathedral.

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While the cathedral dominates the old town, there are plenty of other stunning buildings. I was really impressed by the carving on the timbers of the Bollinger building. the bottom photo is Gutenberg Place.

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The sun sets here at 4:15 p.m., so Ted was able to capture some of the festive lights while I ate warm roasted chestnuts.

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We returned to the ship for dinner preceded by champagne and an introduction to the ship’s officers.

Tomorrow is our regularly scheduled morning in Strasbourg and afternoon in Gengenbach, but after that all bets are off. We’re waiting day-to-day to hear whether we will be able to navigate the flooded Rhine.