Episode 95 – Postcards from Regensburg

NOTE: These travel pictures are from travels prior to us becoming nomadic in 2018. Like most of the world, we are staying put right now until the threat from COVID19 is either over or preventable via a vaccine.

Sailing on the Danube from Nuremberg to Regensburg, we travelled past the imposing Befreiungshalle Kelheim (Kelheim Liberation Hall), completed in 1863 on a commission by King Ludwig I as a memorial for the victorious battles against Napoleon in the Wars of Liberation 1813-1815. On the exterior are 18 colossal statues representing the German tribes. If we ever return to Kelheim, I’d love to tour the interior, where 34 white marble goddesses of victory join hands in a dance, supporting 17 gold-plated shields said to be made from the bronze of melted-down guns.

It was also a route that took us through one of the Danube locks in daylight, allowing us to see its workings (unusual for our itinerary, which involved sailing between cities mostly overnight – in total, on the Rhine, Danube, and Main Rivers, we traversed 68 locks!)

The day’s goal was Regensburg, an important city of the Danube since Roman times, as evidenced by the remains of the east tower of the Praetorian Gate, incorporated into one of the “new” residences.

The 12th century stone bridge, with its 16 arches, was erected around 1135 AD to replace a wooden bridge built by Charlemagne, and was the only bridge across the Danube from Regensburg until the 1930’s. While we were there in 2013 it was closed to vehicles so that it could undergo repairs. Pedestrians and bicyclists were still being allowed to use it.

The mediaeval Altstadt (old town) remains nearly intact, not having suffered much damage during WWII. Regensburg was both a bishopric and an imperial city until 1803, and the quality of the architecture reflects its prosperity.

Gothic St. Peter’s Cathedral opened in 1530, but was under construction over a period of around 300 years beginning in the 1200’s.

Darn. (Or hooray, depending on which of us you were to ask.) Shops are closed on Sundays, so all I could do was window-shop. To be truthful, we do not buy souvenirs, since we don’t have a home in which to store “stuff” … but I was sorely tempted by the Trachten (traditional costumes), and the most beautiful amber jewellery that I’ve ever seen – BOTH of which are acceptable formal wear all over Germany and Austria.

I guess we’ll just have to go back someday!

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