It was absolutely worth getting up before 6:00 a.m. to spend the morning with Alaskan huskies.
There was lots of fog as we sailed in, but it cleared quickly and we had a beautiful ride on twisty roads through lush green forest so dense that our guide explained that elk and moose cannot fit through the trees – their antlers are simply too wide.
Grandson #1 expressed surprise at how green Alaska is in the summer. I think he may have been expecting Arctic tundra, and not wildflower meadows, sponge-y green mosses, and burbling streams flowing through softwood forest.
On arrival at the Mushers’ Camp we were forewarned to use the restrooms because the ride further up-mountain in 18-seater Mercedes Unimogs would be bladder-shakingly rugged. (It was.)
We heard the huskies before we saw them. One of the musher/owner/trainers explained that the dogs do two things really well: run, and bark!!
The lead dog in our team of 16 jumped right up on me as soon as we approached, creating dusty paw prints on my jacket at chest level, and licked my face. The team’s owner, Talia, commented “yup, that one’s a real people lover”.
We’d wondered what kind of sled the teams could pull when there’s no snow, and found out that 4-wheeled 8-seat “carts” are used.
The dogs run year-round. That’s not just to keep them in practice, but because Alaskan huskies are bred to run and pull. Their owner described the breed as “specialized mutts”, whose genetic makeup includes not just Siberian husky (the iconic blue-eyed white and grey breed) but up to 18 other breeds, bred for speed and endurance in sled racing. The result is a dog that is completely unsuited to being a house pet – unless their owner is prepared to run 10km a day with them. Their temperament was described to us as “intense” and “driven” . Talia cautioned that without that high level of exercise they simply “eat up the furniture”. Yikes.
Once Talia took the brake off our vehicle, we were literally off and running. She gave virtually no commands; the team simply took off and followed the road. Unless told to stop, or sidetracked by a line of food or water dishes, they just keep going… and yes, as we discovered, they “go” on the go. Believe us, a diet of raw fish, beaver, and venison, mixed with some high protein kibble, creates a uniquely pungent smell.
We made a quick “photo stop” where Talia took our cell phone and got up close and personal with some of her team.
At the end of our ride, the dogs were eager for a big drink of water and some human interaction.
My lead dog buddy decided my jeans needed paw prints to match my jacket. Unfortunately, a mile long run on a muddy trail meant I was quickly covered in wet mud, wet dog hair, and slobber. Thank goodness for shipboard laundry service!
After getting our fill of team dog affection, we re-boarded the Unimogs to return to musher’s camp to meet some of the retired dogs, some younger dogs, and to learn a bit about Alaska’s famous Iditarod sled race – inside a replica of an Iditarod checkpoint.
The “retirees” were 100% not interested in interacting. Dog handler Nicole sighed, “typical”, and pointedly looked at us “older” folks with a grin.
On to the “teenagers”. Each puppy litter is named on a theme, in this case cookies. The three-month-old pups were playing shy, so Nicole simply picked Snickerdoodle up and introduced her to all of us. She didn’t complain, but she seemed quite happy to be reunited with Brownie and her brother on the running wheel (which was blocked with a rock to keep it stationary because Snickerdoodle likes to sleep under it).
As cute as the “teenagers” were, we were all most excited to hold the babies. Part of the reason people are allowed to handle the puppies is to acclimatize them to human interaction. We were more than happy to help.
Our bribe to leave the puppies was gold panning and s’mores.
Concentration pays off when making s’mores!
We were given just 15 minutes for a bit of retail therapy in the General Store…
…before heading back to the ship, via the Eagles Nest observation point, where we got gorgeous views of Taiya Bay.
After our really early start, the consensus was that instead of wandering around Skagway we’d simply head back to the ship.
#1 needed a nap, and Ted and I needed coffee.
There was time for a dip in the pool before dinner at the early seating.
After dinner, Ted and I went in search of live music, while #1 headed to his happy place, the top deck pool. It’s a tough life.
Tomorrow we’ll be in Endicott Arm in the glaciers. Hopefully we’ll also see a whale or two, if we’re patient and spend our morning bundled up on the deck.
Rose and Ted’s Excellent Adventure 