Rose Brooks

Episode 661 – Capetown, South Africa Day 2 (Ted & Rose): Gardens, A Winery, and a Mountain Top

Today Ted was off to get some birds-eye views of Table Mountain.  I was off to get some South African wine!

Ted’s tour, like mine yesterday, started at Kloof Nek’s lower cableway station, with a ride on the Rotair cable car up the mountainside and the panoramic views courtesy of its 360° rotating floor. I just knew Ted would get some great pictures, although whether they were worth him having to stand in line in the heat for an hour each way is debatable. His poor feet are paying the price tonight.

Looking down at the city and the harbour.

Of course Ted captured wildlife that I am never patient nor observant enough to photograph.

Red-winged starling
Top: Cape starling. Bottom: pied crow
Top: the black girdled lizard, found only on Table Mountain and one other isolated place in South Africa. Bottom: southern African rock agama
One of dozens of species of protea, South Africa’s national flower.
A lazy dassie (Cape hyrax). There were warning signs on the mountain not to feed them

While Ted was enjoying those awesome views, I had a different goal in mind: experiencing one of the world’s foremost botanical gardens, and enjoying a formal tasting at South Africa’s oldest local wine estate.

Our drive from Cape Town skirted the slopes of Devil’s Peak en route to the renowned Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, which covers more than 1,380 acres on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain. 

The park is home to more than 8,500 species of indigenous plants, and we set out on a leisurely stroll, just enjoying being immersed in the idyllic surroundings. It advertises itself as “the most beautiful garden in Africa”, and I can believe it. Even though in early fall there are not many flowers blooming in the park, the manicured lawns, majestic trees, ancient cycads, burbling streams, and winding treetop suspension bridge – all against the backdrop of granite mountains – make the park a feast for the senses and a serene oasis.

Top: Colonel Bird’s Bath.In 1811, a few years after the British took control at the Cape, the southern half of Kirstenbosch was bought by Colonel Christopher Bird, who was then Deputy Colonial Secretary. He built this bird-shaped pool to collect the spring water, and let it stand and clarify before being piped to the house. This bath is also known as ‘Lady Anne Barnard’s Bath’, but that legend is not true. Lady Anne was the wife of the Colonial Secretary and lived at the Cape from 1797 until 1802. She could not have bathed in this bath as it was built after she left the Cape.

After our time in the gardens, we drove through upscale suburbs into the oldest wine producing region in the southern hemisphere: Groot Constantia.  This is where South Africa’s wine industry began more than three centuries ago. 

Fall is approaching. All the grapes have been harvested, and the vines are ready to be pruned back.

It was a nice surprise to have my friend Sue on the excursion, since Ted was elsewhere.

We were treated to generous tastes of 5 vintages, each paired with a chocolate intended to enhance its flavour. Most of us agreed that all 5 wines were excellent, and in fact the last two were superb. We all agreed that the chocolate pairings, except for the final two, did not enhance the wonderful wines.

Afterward, we were an extremely relaxed and chatty group travelling over Constantia Nek to Hout Bay and through seaside communities headed back to our ship.

Good night Cape Town – until we meet again.

I think we’ll both sleep well tonight.  I’m glad tomorrow is a sea day.

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