Today was originally to have been in Zanzibar, but an uptick in cholera infections in Tanzania caused neighbouring Madagascar to tighten its regulations in a way that would make it impossible for us to visit it – or subsequent African countries – if we had been in Zanzibar first.
Our Captain’s letter, issued way back on March 4th while we were still in Malaysia, explained that instead of visiting Zanzibar we’d be extending our stay in Mombasa, and then travelling directly from there to Madagascar.
Viking never makes these decisions lightly. We are confident that our health and safety are always paramount. Cholera is no joke.
We were offered some wonderful options, but after two very long days, chose one that sounded both relaxing and pampering: lunch aboard a dhow.
Our transportation on the water was an authentic Arabic sailing vessel once used to trade cargo along Kenya’s coast. Despite appearances somewhat to the contrary – at least to western eyes used to shiny metal boats and ships – the dhow had been completely refurbished to be seaworthy.
Captain Abu navigated using a traditional wooden ship’s wheel.
No radar on a dhow, so at the front there was a lookout. At one point Ted inadvertently stepped into the line of view between Captain and lookout while taking a photo, and everyone yelled, “down in front!”. No worrying about that on the Sky!
We sailed around the mangrove-lined shores of Tudor Creek, seeing Mombasa’s upscale side, its historic old town, and Fort Jesus from a completely different perspective. We could imagine ourselves as arriving Omani traders.
We moored at a peaceful spot, where lunch was served, accompanied by music from a live band down on the main deck.
Our wait staff effortlessly hauled food and drink up the steep wooden staircases. The stairs and the dhow’s trim were all intricately carved.
We were able to watch lots of fishermen on the bay.
Some were clearly working harder than others midday. We were intrigued by the dugout boats.
There was also a working dhow (as opposed to our refurbished leisure boat).
The short sail home was so peaceful and idyllic that Ted actually fell asleep for a bit!
As we re-boarded our ship, a group of young Maasai men honoured us with an adumu, also known as the Maasai jumping dance, a type of dance that the Maasai people of Kenya and Tanzania practice. Young Maasai warriors generally perform the energetic and acrobatic dance at ceremonial occasions including weddings, religious rites, and other significant cultural events.
All I can say after 3 magnificent days in Kenya is thank goodness we have 2 sea days before reaching Madagascar!
Asante sana. Thank you very much.
Rose and Ted’s Excellent Adventure 
Next time you are on the east coast of Africa, missing Zanzibar, try Lamu Island — also had its heyday in the Swahili trading period and retains lots of that culture — the gorgeous doors, Arab markets, lots of dhows etc. I had the privilege of staying at the Peponi Hotel in about 1987 and just checked — still there and still looks lovely — though now 29 rooms instead of about 10, if that! Lamu looks like it’s developed just enough to be comfortable for the person I am now in contrast to the 32 year old adventuresome me in the late 80s!
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