Rose Brooks

Episode 555 – San Diego Revisited

We spent all of February of this year in San Diego (Episode 479 through Episode 499), after returning from our Hawaiian cruise, so we felt absolutely no need to take a guided excursion, plus the ship docks very near downtown; you can simply walk down the gangway, out through the port building, and be right in the city within short walking distance of historic buildings, tourist sites, and outdoor markets.

We docked at 9:00 a.m. and all-aboard time was not until 4:00 p.m.; with this being the coolest day of our entire itinerary at just 22°C/72°F, it would have been a shame to waste such gorgeous weather by staying on board (no matter how nice the peace and quiet of a virtually empty ship may be).

But first, breakfast. My favourite station in the buffet is the French crepes, made to order, offered with a wide range of fillings, and folded Breton-style into a square pouch. Yesterday’s filling choice was apple cinnamon; this morning it was mixed berries. By the time we were done our coffees, the 700 people ending their cruise here had disembarked (with the exception of 5 who had to be called out by name on the ship’s loudspeakers at 10:00 a.m.), and we headed out into an uncrowded pier.

That’s reindeer sausage on the side.

Ted and I both love San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter, which was where we stayed on our very first visit to San Diego in May 2010, and where we initially fell in love with the city.

Back in the 1880’s, this 16-block district, with its iconic ornate gaslamps, was infamously known for its brothels, gambling houses, and opium dens. Now it is all upscale restaurants, charming parks, theatres, and abundant nightlife options. Its proximity to both the cruise port and Petco Park, where the San Diego Padres play, means there are also lots of hotels.

I love architecture, so today’s 12,000 steps (poor Ted) took us along the Embarcadero, through Seaport Village, and then into the heart of the Gaslamp District.

The park beside the Midway aircraft carrier, with its huge “Unconditional Surrender” statue.

We presumed it was because the fish market was not operating that there were no sea lions or harbour seals hanging around, but there was still lots of great scenery – and so many beautiful boats!

If you look closely in this photo, you’ll see a boat that surely must belong to a photographer: the SNAPHAPPY!

We strolled Fourth and Fifth Avenues, lined with Victorian landmarks and early 20th century gems.

As we strolled, Fifth Avenue was being closed to vehicular traffic. That’s something that started during COVID when restaurants needed expanded outdoor patios, since indoor dining was prohibited. It was so popular that San Diego now has plans to create a permanent pedestrian zone by 2026, similar to State Street in Santa Barbara – even planting more trees to create a shady boulevard. As the traffic policeman said, “it’s San Diego … who wants to be inside?”

The Yuma Building (1882)…
There’s a name we remember from Balboa Park … and from Hawaii!
The Horton Grand Hotel, which is a restoration of two separate historic hotels: The Grand Horton Hotel and the Brooklyn-Kahle Saddlery Hotel.
The two hotels were built in the mid-1880s.
The former Sugar Factory Building. When the building’s current lease expires in 2026, there are plans to turn this current Mexican cantina into a hotel, but in the meantime I partied with the Chipmunks. ¡Mar chingon!
The 1892 Cole Block Building
Old City Hall, built in 1874.
These beautiful shell design art deco stained glass windows, on what may once have been a cinema entrance, provide the background to one of the district’s iconic gas lamps.
The Keating Building, a five-story Romanesque Revival-style building, built as an office building with then modern conveniences of steam heat and a wire cage elevator, in 1890. It was designed by George J. Keating and was completed by the Reid Brothers after Keating’s death. The San Diego Savings Bank occupied the corner space in the building from 1893 to about 1912, and its old safe was still in the building in 1980. In the 2000s its interior was redesigned and in 2007 it was re-opened as the Keating Hotel.

The Louis Bank of Commerce was built in 1887.It is a four story Baroque Revival building with twin rising towers. This is the first granite building in San Diego that was pre-built on the east coast and shipped around Cape Horn to California.The Louis Bank of Commerce was located here until 1893, then Isidor Louis opened an oyster bar, apparently a favorite of Wyatt Earp.
The lovely hotel on E street where we spent our 2010 week in San Diego.
The Balboa Theater is celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2024!
The San Diego Trust and Savings Bank, completed in 1928, has been a Courtyard Marriott Hotel since 1999.

The Art Deco Samuel I Fox Building was designed by William Templeton Johnson, and completed in 1929. The tile inlays under the roof are magnificent.
The New Spreckels Theater Building, built in 1912, originally created to host live theater performances, but was converted to allow motion pictures in 1931. It was touted as “the first modern commercial playhouse west of the Mississippi”.
The US Grant Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in San Diego, opening its doors to guests for the first time in 1910. It has survived hard times but come back to prominence as part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection brand.

There we so many more buildings I could have made Ted photograph, but the man had already been more than patient with me.

By the time we got back to the ship, Ted was ready for a rest and to settle into a comfy chair in the Crow’s Nest Café, but I needed lunch… and Prosecco. Okay, “needed” might be a bit of an overstatement ….

Szechuan shrimp, with a side of spicy Indonesia hot sauce, plus a bit of sushi (California roll and salmon roll). All that extra wasabi is incentive to drink more water!

The afternoon was spent just relaxing and prepping this blog, and before we knew it dinner hour had rolled around. Tonight we shared a 4-top with Cathy and Don from Belleville, Ontario, and thoroughly enjoyed our time together.

Top left: salmon and spinach croquette garnished with tangy slaw and smoked salmon. Top right: French onion soup. Centre: fresh salmon with miso ginger glaze, asparagus, and a crispy potato & zucchini pancake. Bottom: orange & lime panna cotta.

And that’s a wrap on today, after lattes in the Crow’s Nest looking out at starry Pacific Ocean skies.

Our next 2 days are at sea until we reach Puerto Vallarta.

2 comments

  1. I know it was one stop back, but wanted to say I was really pleased that you enjoyed the courthouse in Santa Barbara so much. I think Ted’s pictures of San Diego may help convince my husband that we need to make a little visit there. My grandparents lived there for about 10 years, so I made several visits but he’s never been. There’s always more to see!

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